trentonmakes
2021 年 7 月 22 日
Castiglione della Pescaia sits on a mountainous promontory that somewhat incongruously splits the flat pinelands of the Grosseto coastal plain. After Route 158 takes you up over the promontory, it comes back down to the coastal plain again at the hamlet of Pian di Rocca. Here, a half kilometer in from the road, a dozen or so houses are nestled around an old farmhouse complex (in Italian, a "fattorìa") whose buildings -- now converted to hospitality uses -- form a square courtyard. At one side rises the spacious farm residence that has become today's delightful B&B, the Fattoria Pian di Rocca. The front desk is not staffed round the clock. Indeed, when we arrived at 6 p.m. on a summer evening there was no one about to let us in. A somewhat longer-term foreign guest, finding us waiting outside the door, had a cell number for the manager and kindly called her. She arranged for Laura, who was nearby on her motorbike, to come over and admit us. The room we were assigned was the next floor up, a spacious room with a splendid terrace and a welcome bathtub. Based on its furnishings we assumed that Martina, the owner, has invested a fair amount of time in antique shops: the furniture inside was definitely of an earlier age, which we liked. We liked even more the excellent WiFi service (take nothing for granted!) and a king-sized bed.The terrace furniture was comfortable and seduced us into idle languor. The terrace was spacious enough to allow my bride to do her yoga drills. The Fattoria also has a number of bicycles available for guests' complimentary use,. While they didn't exactly fit our height requirements, they were certainly serviceable on the narrow, untrafficked (and most important, flat!) road that runs from Pian di Rocca to the coastal road to Le Rocchette that runs through the pinewood. Breakfast is served on a back veranda. Conveniently across the courtyard is the Osteria La Corte, which attracts diners from the larger community with its rustic and savory cuisine. The B&B's high-season room rate was our most expensive accommodation charge on this trip -- about US$175 a night. My wife is eager for us to go back when we return to the Maremma next year. This was just an ideal place to unwind for a day that had no schedule or program.
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